The latest offering from Havid Nagan, the HN02, showcases a significant evolution in the brand's design philosophy, blending the distinctive cushion-cased silhouette of its heritage with the refined aesthetics introduced in its previous round model. This new timepiece combines compact dimensions with intricate dial craftsmanship and an advanced movement, positioning itself as a sophisticated option for watch enthusiasts seeking a unique blend of tradition and modernity.
Following the successful launch of its Classic One, Havid Nagan, under the guidance of founder Aren Bazerkanian, revisits its signature cushion-shaped case with the introduction of the HN02. This model, however, incorporates several design enhancements first seen in the Classic One, particularly its layered dial architecture and an updated case profile. Unlike earlier HN series watches, the HN02 features more conventional lugs, which contribute to a more restrained feel on the wrist. This subtle change not only enhances wearability, especially for individuals with smaller wrists, but also allows the intricate details of the dial to take center stage without being overshadowed by an overly bold case.
The HN02 maintains the compact, dress-watch-inspired sizing of the Classic One, boasting a 38mm diameter and a slender 9mm height, making it a versatile accessory for various occasions. The timepiece is offered in two distinct versions: one in natural grade 5 titanium and another with a dark DLC-coated finish. While the DLC coating provides superior scratch resistance, it is primarily chosen for its aesthetic appeal, particularly for the vibrant 'Ember' orange dial variation. The standard titanium model features an elegant 'Azure' blue dial.
The dial is the focal point of the HN02's visual appeal. It features a raised central section adorned with a meticulously hand-turned guilloché pattern, which is then galvanized to achieve its rich color and finished with a grand feu enameling process. This flinqué enamel technique, combining engine-turning with glass powder application, is a labor-intensive craft that significantly contributes to the watch's premium price point of $18,000. The enamel section is cleverly cut out at the bottom to accommodate a small seconds subdial, which utilizes a transparent disc with printed markings and a snailed texture for enhanced legibility. Behind this, a smoked sapphire disc with a minute track and a decorative metal ring further adds to the dial's depth and complexity. A particularly charming detail is the cutout at 3 o'clock, offering a glimpse into the keyless works, a playful nod to the watch's mechanical ingenuity.
Turning the watch over reveals the manually wound AMT6600 caliber, an in-house developed movement produced by Sellita's custom caliber department. This movement, also featured in the Classic One, is partially skeletonized and finished with a striking high-contrast treatment. The bridges are given a matte, frosted appearance, allowing the polished anglage to stand out, especially around the jewel sinks. Other parts of the mainplate and bridges are galvanized with a gold hue and exhibit a highly textured finish. This level of aesthetic detail in the movement is rare at this price point, offering a glimpse into haute horlogerie craftsmanship. The movement operates at a modern 28,800 VpH (4 Hz) and comes with COSC certification, ensuring precision and reliability.
On the wrist, the HN02 is an engaging timepiece that draws attention. Despite the intricate visual elements, its smaller size and more traditional lug design provide a welcome balance, preventing the watch from feeling overly ostentatious. This model marks a personal shift in the reviewer's perception of the brand, moving Havid Nagan from an acquired taste to a compelling option. While the $18,000 price tag positions it in a competitive market segment, its unique design and meticulous craftsmanship make it particularly appealing to discerning collectors seeking a distinctive addition to their collection. The HN02 is a testament to the brand's evolving design language, offering a refined and elegant package that is both wearable and visually captivating.